Gasherbrum I Expedition means "Shining Wall". It is the highest (8,068m/26,470ft) among the six peaks of the huge massif. This mountain is also called ‘Hidden Peak’ by the nineteenth-century British explorer Conway. There are six Gasherbrum Peaks, the Hidden peak is the highest one among them. It is the world’s eleventh highest peak with challenging technical difficulties at a lower level of ascent. Its first part of the climb is steep snow and ice with rocks then easy climb on snow and mixed slops. The most common route is North West Face. It is located in the Pakistani and Chinese border in Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and Xinjiang region of China.

The Route

The first route of  Gasherbrum I  has remained closed since the mid-80s due to the Siachen conflict. It is now usually being climbed from its most prominent route from the plateau on Gasherbrum Glacier. The more popular route in recent years has been the Gasherbrum La to the Japanese Culvert or the routes along the north ridge. The other alternate route is the west ridge, which is technically less demanding but takes longer time due to the long distance between Camp I and the summit.

Apart from some technical difficulties in the lower part, the snow face high up sometimes poses a danger of avalanche after new snow falls.

The lowest by small footage of the Karakoram 8000ers is Gasherbrum – II. At 8035m it has been described by climbers as an impressive but achievable peak, much like Cho Oyu in this respect but with a walk to its BC that is said to be the best trek in the world. Its climb provides a perfect mountaineering experience. G2 stands in the majestic neighborhood of K2 in a close line-up of world’s highest peaks in the titanic amphitheater of Concordia that has no parallel in the world.

The Alternative Route

The snow-face of the South-West Ridge presents considerable difficulties on ice and snow mixed faces and ridges once you are above the plateau after negotiating the heavily crevassed Gasherbrum Glacier. It is a steep way up in some sections. From above the snowy Banana Ridge, you continue climbing on a series of ridges and reach a platform where camp 2 is generally set up.

From here you climb a couple of ice pitches and then up the face going steeper before you reach the shoulder, the site of C3 at 7490m. After three pitches from there, it is a diagonal way across the face from where a traverse leads to the base of the summit pyramid on the East Ridge. The climb from there is straight on a wide-open expanse with glorious surroundings but a few steep sections before you reach the narrow summit ridge.

Highlights

  • Gasherbrum I occupies the  tenth position on the ascent-list of  the 8000-meter peaks
  • The "least popular" of the 8000-meter peaks
  • The scenery is stunning and the climb is mind-blowing

Day 01: Arrive in Islamabad (540m ) and Transfer to hotel

Day 02: Briefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Meeting with LO (Liaison Officer)

Day 03: Fly to Skardu. In case of cancellation of flight drive to Chilas (480 km).

Day 04: Day free at Skardu in case you arrive by flight. If you are driving, you will complete the road journey (07–08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has a good view of  Nanga Parbat (8,125m).

Day 05: Drive from Skardu to Askole (2,600m) by jeeps (6 hours)

Day 06: Trek from Askole to Jhola (3,185m)

Day 07:  Trek from Jhola to paiyu (3,383m)

Day 08: Rest Day in Paiyu

Day 09: Trek from Paiyu to Urdukas (4,130m)

Day 10: Trek from Urdukas to Goro II (4250m)

Day 11: Trek from Goro II to Concordia (4,600m)

Day 12: Trek from Concordia to  Gasherbrum II Base Camp (5300 )

Day 13-40:  Climbing period from Base camp to summit (8,035m) and back to Base camp

day 41: Rest day in Base camp and personal equipment packing

Day 42: Trek from Base camp to Goro II (4,250m)

Day 43: Trek from Goro II to  Khuburtse

Day 44: Trek from Kumburtse to mundung

Day 45: Trek from mundung to Askole

Day 46: Drive from Askole to Skardu

Day 47: Rest day at Skardu

Day 48: Fly from Skardu to Islamabad and transfer to Hotel

Day 49:  Rest day in Islamabad

Day 50: Transfer to airport for final departure

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