• Dawa Ongju Sherpa: +977-9841336205
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License No.: 202830/ 075/076

Dawa Ongju Sherpa Profile

My name is Dawa Ongju Sherpa. By profession, I am a mountain climber. I was born on 17 December 1972 in Walung Village Development Committee ward no. 1 in Sankhuwasabha District of Nepal that borders the Everest region. I spent most of my childhood in my village close to Mt. Makalu.

Dawa Ongju Sherpa

Mountain Climber

In my early teens, I used to work as a yak herder. Hundreds of trekkers and climbers were seen regularly passing near my village. One day, I introduced myself to one of the climbers and asked about mountaineering. He spoke freely about mountaineering and his experiences with the mountains. I was captivated and greatly inspired by his stories and about his climbing experiences. I was so influenced by the mountaineer’s tales, my interest in mountaineering developed at an early age. Now I can say that I was inspired by those adventurous Western climbers to shape my career in mountain tourism.

Since 1988, I started my career in the mountain tourism at an early age of 16, working initially as a Kitchen Boy and Porter ferrying gears and supplies of trekking and expedition to the mountains around my home village and earning some money to support my family. I learned much from the older Sherpa climbers in my region, observing closely their methods and skills. But my aim was to become a full-time mountain guide and mountaineer and in the year 1989, I left my village and went to Darjeeling, India in search of a job in tourism. Fortunately, I landed a job as a trekking guide in one of the trekking company located in Darjeeling. The little money that I could earn out of this job was spent on acquiring initial training on climbing from the prestigious Tenzing Norgay Institute and subsequently obtained basic and advanced training on climbing from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI). There, I honed my skills through various courses, starting from basic mountaineering training and moving on to the more advanced ones.

I have summited mountain peaks over 8000 meters, a total of 28 times since 2000 and 6000 -7000 meters a total of 87 times. Altogether, I have climbed mountain peaks 115 times, ranging from 8000m, 7000m to 6000m in Nepal, China and Pakistan.

I have also managed to set records during my climbing profession. I was the first climber in the world to reach the summit of Mount Kanchenjunga four times. I set the record of being the first Nepali to summit Mount Dhaulagiri within 4 days after departure from Kathmandu and also have the longest time record while successfully climbing and reaching the top of Mount Everest south side from Nepal with a total of eighty days of tireless efforts despite bad weather en route. One interesting thing to note is that I opened all the routes myself while climbing the mountain without requiring help from any other team members.

I have conquered summits a total of 115 times to this date and some of which were in the most inhospitable environments on earth. However, success was always in my favour. I have survived avalanches, crevasse falls, frostbites, and bivouacs many times at extreme altitudes. I am the only Nepali climber to successfully climb most of the world’s highest mountains summits without any fatal incidents during the climb.

I am still climbing peaks in Nepal, China, and Pakistan with international expedition teams and hope to keep continuing as a climbing leader till the ripe old age of the ’60s and I am sure that will be a  record in itself of being the first Nepali to climb and summit the highest Himalayan peaks at that age. I am still an expert mountain guide and a professional high altitude climbing leader with countless successful climbing expeditions above 8,000m peaks in Nepal, Tibet, Pakistan and India.

I hope to reach the summits of all fourteen of the world’s 8000-metre mountains successfully from Everest, K2, Annapurna, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, Manaslu, Cho Oyu to Shishapangma. Currently, I work with my own adventure travel company Himalayan Global Expedition based in Kathmandu, Nepal as a Chairman. More than 2 decades of my contribution to the Nepalese Tourism industry has taken my company’s reputation of being one of the finest Mountaineering and Expedition companies in Nepal. We provide first-class logistics and experienced staff. My goal is to organize the very best mountaineering program at the most competitive price. In the future, I would like to share my knowledge and experience in mountaineering and contribute to promoting the Nepalese mountaineering profession.

Following is the list of Mountains in Nepal, India, Tibet and Pakistan that I have successfully climbed and reached the summit by the number of times:

8,000m

Mountain / Peak
Altitude
Nos.
Mt. Kanchenjunga
Mt. Everest
Mt. Makalu
Mt. Manaslu
Mt. Dhaulagiri
Mt.Annapurna
Mt. Lhotse
Mt. Cho Oyu
Mt. Gasherbrum-1
Mt. Gasherbrum-2
Mt. Nanga Parbat
Mt. Broad Peak
8,586m
8,848m
8,463m
8,163m
8,167m
8,091m
8,516m
8,201m
8,068m
8035m
8,125m
8,047m
4 times
8 times
1 time
2 times
1 time
1 time
1 time
1 time
3 times
3 times
2 times
2 times

Nepal (below 8,000m)

Mountain / Peak
Altitude
Nos.
Lobuche
Parchamo
Ramdung
Yala
Annapurna III
AmaDablam
Tent Peak
Island( Imjatse) Peak
Mera Peak
Kwangde Lho Peak
Naya Khang
Pokalde
Yalung Ri
Baruntse
6,119m
6,273m
5,925m
5,732m
7,555m
6,812m
5,663m
6,189m
6,420m
6,150m
5,860m
5,800m
5,700m
7,200m
4 times
1 time
1 time
3 times
1 time
3 times
1 time
6 times
3 times
2 times
1 time
2 times
2 times
3 times

India (below 8,000m)

Mountain / Peak
Altitude
Nos.
Nun
Kun
Stok Kangri
Rimo I
Chong Kumdang
Khanglache
Mamostong Kangri
Sasir Kangri II East
Ge peak 1 time
Dawa Peak
Kamet Peak
Nanda Kot Peak
Sunal Chuk Peak
Ratong Peak
Kabru Peak
Tenzing Khang
Nanda Banar
Chomoreri Peak
Kabru South Peak
Kabru North peak
Twins Peak I
Twins Peak II
Nanda Khat Peak
7,135m
7,087m
6,153m
7,385m
7,400m
6,135m
7,516m
7,513m
7,518m
6,000m
7,756m
6,861m
6,723m
6,678m
7,317m
6,010m
6,215m
6,217m
6,400m
6,318m
7,600m
7,460m
6,611m
2 times
1 time
20 times
1 time
1 time
4 times
1 time
1time
1 time
2 times
1 time
2 times
1 time
2 times
2 times
3 times
2 times
1 time
1 time
1 time
2 times
3 times
2 times

Pakistan (below 8,000m)

Mountain / Peak
Altitude
Nos.
Spantik Peak 7,027 m 1 time

Himalayan Global Expedition is Nepal’s finest adventure travel company specialized in mountaineering expeditions for individual and groups travelers. We offer over 50 mountaineering expeditions to above 8,000m renowned international and domestic peaks with world-class mountain guiding services in Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan, India and Pakistan through our professional mountain guides and support staff.

Whether novice, or a seasoned adventurer, you will find our services at par with the best in the industry, and we are always eager to help you join the perfect adventure of your choice. Please feel free to contact us to learn more. We offer expedition support and guiding services for private and join-in groups.

Each team member is a Certified Alpine Guide with expedition experiences in the Himalayan. These include in Everest, K2, Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, and Cho Oyu (Tibet). Himalayan Global Expedition’s Himalayan expedition programs are organized and conducted by Dawa Ongju Sherpa, one of Nepal’s premiere expedition organizers. Under his leadership, the company has organized many Himalayan Expeditions in Nepal, Tibet, India and Pakistan. His team includes a group of professionals and Sherpas who are best at what they do.

Each season Himalayan Global Expedition operates private climbing expeditions to any Himalayan mountains in Nepal, Tibet, India and Pakistan for organizations, families, fundraising teams and a variety of social groups. Please contact us to assist in arranging a private or custom climb for your team. In most cases, we can accommodate your schedule and as always, we will have climbing professionals to lead your group.

Joining a high-altitude trek or expedition is a serious decision. You should be completely confident in the organization and leadership before you make that decision. Many of you have climbed with us before, and because your experience with us was good, you are considering another climb. For those of you who have not climbed with us, we strongly encourage you to get to know us thoroughly and talk to our past clients if possible. When you are ready to make the decision, we will be happy to provide you with a complete list of references from our trekkers and climbers. If you would like to join any of our mountaineering expedition programs in upcoming season, please share this PDF with your friends and then contact us for further information!